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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary honour.